TOP 5 CAR WASH SOAPS/ SHAMPOO

1. Lucky Earth Car Wash:
Lucky Earth “Waterless” Car Wash Cleans, Polishes & Protects without using water. Lucky Earth’s signature product is made with water, natural surfactants (the cleaner) derived from coconut, and silicone.  The surfactants break up and lift the dirt from the vehicle’s surface, while the silicone allows the dirt to be easily whisked away without scratching.  In addition, the silicone leaves a smooth feel and glossy shine on automobiles, boats, and all types of motorsports and watercraft.  The 32 oz. spray bottle of “Waterless” Car Wash can also be used inside vehicles on the dashboard, leather seats, doors, and any other non-fabric surfaces.  You can get about 7 to 10 car washes per bottle. Must be used with microfiber towels.
Clean up to 8 to 10 Cars.





 

2. Ecolo Green Car Wash:
ECOLO-CAR is a non-wax, water-based, coconut soap, organic polymer blend that washes and polishes without additional water. Spray on every surface of your vehicle except on fabric. It dissolves the dirt particles on contact, lifting them from the surface to protect from scratching. The protective coating leaves a long lasting shine. Biodegradable, non hazardous, V.O.C. compliant, contains no petroleum distillates, non-corrosive and anti-static.
Clean up to 6 Cars.

3. Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner:
Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner is a rich and luxurious product designed to both wash and condition paint in one easy step. The premium formula gently foams away tough dirt, road grime and contaminants without compromising wax protection. Ultra rich paint conditioners clear away debris to reveal color and clarity, leaving paint looking radiant.


 





4. Sonus Gloss Shampoo:
Sonus Gloss Shampoo has what your car needs:
* Gloss conditioners to prevent spotting and streaking.
* Neutral pH for gentle cleaning.
* Proper lubrication to prevent scratching.
Sonus Gloss Shampoo is a gentle car wash concentrate that safely cleans.  Special lubricants buffer your car's delicate paint finish, protecting it from scratching and swirl marks.  Dirt and grit safely slip away.Sonus Gloss Shampoo conditions and restores wax protection as you wash. The Sonus formula is optimized for use on modern clearcoat finishes, creating a freshly waxed appearance and protection every time you wash.  Special polymers protect and shine for lasting beauty.


5. 3M Car Wash Shampoo:
3M Car Wash Shampoo is a gentle-cleansing liquid gel which will not remove wax, yet easily washes away all traces of grease, dirt and grit that have accumulated since your last wax. After your wash, your car should feel as nice and slick as it did the day you waxed it. Car Wash Shampoo is 100% safe for all clear coats, and phosphate free! Conditioners in the formula moisturize the paint, while fighting against water spots.
Clean up to 15 cars

Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew info@AutoPlusDetailing.com

TOP FIVE TIRE SHINE PRODUCTS

1. Armor All Extreme Tire Shine:
Deep black, shiny tires make your car look incredible, but the shine never seems to last. Extreme Tire Shine Gel is our most advanced formula, engineered for extraordinary results that last for weeks. As a pioneer in tire care, we developed an incredibly rich, powerful gel that adheres to your tires, forming a resilient, durable shield. And it's fortified with high molecular-weight silicone that will preserve your tires' intense, captivating shine and rich, black look.
Delivers serious wet black shine that lasts for weeks
Rich, durable gel coats for a smooth, even look — without messy over-spray
Protects against harmful elements that can cause cracking & fading




2. DuPont – Teflon Tire Shine, 22 oz:
DuPont introduces the only tire shine with Teflon surface protectors for a long-lasting, clear, “wet look” shine. It bonds to tires and won’t leave a greasy mess. The non-stick Teflon coating leaves an invisible protective barrier to help repel new dirt, road grime and brake dust build-up for a long-lasting, clear, “wet look” shine.
Features:
* Leaves a clear, “wet look” shine that’s completely dry to the touch.
* Coating will not “sling” off tires while driving – leaves no greasy mess on your car.
* Spray on, walk away – no wiping required.
* Non-petroleum-based formula helps tires resist browning, drying and cracking. DuPont – Teflon Tire Shine, 22 oz.



3. Meguiars hot shine Tire Spray:
Protect your tires from the detrimental effects of neglect. Hot Shine High Gloss Tire Spray keeps your tires young and resilient, while making them look super! Meguiar’s Hot Shine High Gloss Tire Spray uses water-resistant polymers, combined with anti-ozonant technology (UV inhibitors) to arrive at a formula that lasts for weeks. Through rains and washings, Hot Shine hangs on and keeps your tires looking black and glossy.
The first adjustable width spray nozzle on a tire dressing (patent pending) is found on this product, making a potentially messy job so much neater. No more drips, runs or overspray! Always work on cool clean tires. Adjust sprayer to narrow or wide, depending on the girth of your tires, spray on the shine and walk away. The thick formula penetrates, rejuvenates, nourishes and conditions the rubber, giving an unmistakable high gloss, wet-looking surface that says “pampered.” The glow nicely complements any vehicle.
Control the level of shine by adding another layer, or buffing off excess Hot Shine for a more subtle glow. Excess product should be wiped away anyhow, to avoid sling-off. Expect weeks of gloss and protection with just one application!


4. BLACK MAGIC TITANIUM TIRE WET SPRAY:
Go beyond the ordinary for the longest-lasting shine around! Take your vehicle's appearance seriously? Now, get the intense, super-wet-looking shine you crave and with the Scuff-Defense formula helps keep your tires looking great for up to four weeks! Safe top of the line performance and shine outlasts the leading aerosol tire shine competitors on the market. Perfect for high performance tires. Contains 16 oz.
* Intense, Super-Wet-Looking Shine You Crave
* Lasts Up To Four Weeks
* Scuff-Defense Formula Keeps Tires Looking Great





5. EAGLE ONE WET TIRE SHINE (23 OZ.):
Formulated to provide a long-lasting, ultra-black glossy shine that will complement great-looking wheels. Our special formula also limits residual spray or "sling" on paint and wheels. When used with Eagle One Tire Swipes, it can be applied to your tires with little or no waste.
* Ultra-black, glossy "wet look"
* Spray or wipe on
* Low "sling" formula
* Water-resistant, long-lasting





Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew info@AutoPlusDetailing.com

How to remove swirl marks

 What are Swirls…?

Swirl marks are scratches in the finish. Sometimes these scratches are microscopic in size and only visible in bright light, like direct sunlight or very intense artificial lights. Other swirl marks are very deep and are easily visible in just about any lighting condition.

Swirl marks can generally be placed in two categories, which describe the origin of the swirls.
a.) Cobweb-effect also called spider web scratches, car wash scratches, towel scratches etc. Its visual appearance of the thousands, and even hundreds of thousands of tiny scratches inflicted into your car's finish through normal, everyday wear and tear.
b.) Buffer Swirls or Holograms
Buffer swirl, also referred to as holograms, are circular scratches grooved into the finish through either the improper use of a rotary buffer, or using the wrong pads and chemicals with the rotary buffer. Buffer swirls can either be very deep or very shallow, depending on how forcefully they were created and depending on the products and type of pad used while buffing.

What causes swirl marks?
Here are the ten most frequent causes of swirl marks:
I. Polishers/buffers with the incorrect pad or an untrained operator.
II. Harsh polishing compounds and paint cleaners.
III. Towels and applicators containing polyester threads.
IV. A dirty chamois or a chamois that has not been properly maintained.
V. Wiping down a dusty or dirty car with a dry towel.
VI. A dirty car duster or a car duster used on a car with too much dirt on the surface.
VII. Not keeping your wash mitt or sponge properly rinsed.
VIII. Automated car washes with brushes and other wipers.
IX. Not rinsing your car completely before washing, or not washing your car thoroughly before drying.
X. Using a car cover when the car or the cover is not clean.

How do we remove swirls?
Options for reducing or removing swirls, spots and minor paint blemishes:
1. Temporarily hide swirls marks:
In this procedure, Swirls can be visually hid by polishing the surface with a non-abrasive polish. These polish round off the top edge of swirl, robbing sunlight of a sharp edge to cause a reflection. When you buff off the polishing residues, fillers will stay in the depressions. Finish it by applying wax or paint sealant to hide swirls. As mentioned above, these procedure only hide swirls not remove it. Swirls may be visible in certain light conditions and reappear as the wax ages.






2. Remove the swirl, water spot or paint defect:
In this procedure, firstly remove top layer of paint or clear coat that contain the swirl by using circular machine polisher which is designed to remove paint. These polishers will do better job than manually. Deeper swirls, water spots or light scratches require three steps:
a.) Compound
b.) Polish
c.) Finish

Compounding involves abrading away the area surrounding the scratch or blemish until the defect is no longer visible. Polishing removes compounding haze and restores surface gloss. It creates highly reflective finish ready for waxing. Finishing protects the surface with wax or sealant. It can be accomplish manually or with a dual action polisher.


Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew info@AutoPlusDetailing.com

One of our readers posted a results video! Check it out

 A reader of our blog posted a video of his results after reading our how to articles.  If you have a video showing your results let us know and we will share it too. This car looks great and really shines. Glad to see these tips are helping people get the results they are looking for.



Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew info@AutoPlusDetailing.com

Proper use auto detailing clay

Auto Detailing Clay Basics

If detailing clay is new to you, you might be thinking, “What is detailing clay and what can detailing clay do for my car?” The short answer is that auto detailing clay removes from the paint what washing cannot. For the long answer, read on!
Auto Detailing Clay Bar is an engineered resin compound used to remove contaminants from the surface of your car’s paint, glass, fiberglass and metal. Detailing clay can be natural or synthetic, though most manufacturers utilize synthetic clays.
Auto detailing clay is similar to the stuff you played with as a kid, but the clay used for detailing is usually much more elastic. The elasticity gives the detailing clay excellent durability as it is rolled, flattened, smashed and stretched over and over again.
Plus detailing clay is designed to stand up to the kind of contaminants that your childhood clay never had to face, i.e. industrial fallout, rail dust and brake dust. These contaminants pierce paint finishes, glass and metal and remain stuck on your vehicle through rain, car washes, and even polishing. The only way to remove these pollutants is detailing clay.

How Does Auto Detailing Clay Work?
Detailing clay glides along the surface of your paint and grabs anything that protrudes from the surface. The particles stick to the clay and therefore is removed from your vehicle. The surface being clayed should always be wet with clay lubricant to prevent loose debris from scratching the vehicle.

Used properly, detailing clay is completely safe and nonabrasive. Its a much better option than polishing to remove these contaminants because clay doesn’t remove any paint.
There are two different grades of clay currently available to the public. One is a medium grade detailing clay designed to clean the vehicle once or twice a year. This grade of clay removes wax along with anything else on the vehicle. We’re talking CLEAN.

Your other option is a fine grade that’s relatively new to the industry. This detailing clay removes everything the medium clay removes and it is gentle enough to use monthly or as needed for spot cleaning. If you’re someone who’s meticulous about clean, shiny paint this clay is for you.

All detailing clay requires the use of a clay lubricant to prevent scratches as you gently rub the clay on the vehicle. 

What Does Detailing Clay Remove?
Your vehicle is under constant assault from airborne pollutants. Brake dust, industrial fallout, acid rain deposits and rail dust all can adhere to your vehicle. These contaminants often contain metal particulates, which accounts for the ease with which they penetrate the clear coat to attack the paint below. These contaminants then oxidize, and they allow rust to spread beneath the clear coat. Tiny orange spots today, total paint system failure tomorrow! Detailing clay removes these contaminants in
order to keep the paint healthy and vibrant.
Detailing Clay also removes stubborn sap, tar, and bug remains. Detailing clay works wonder on glass as well. Try some the next time you’re washing your windows. You’ll be amazed at the results!

Do You Need To Clay?
Chances are, the answer is yes. The surface of your vehicle faces assaults from the environment every time it’s out in the weather. Each road trip brings new insults from roadway debris, exhaust films, and airborne pollution. They will splash, mar, and embed themselves in that beautiful paint job you’ve labored over. Vehicles can accumulate these contaminants any time, any place – even at the dealership.
The Bag Test: There’s a simple test that will indicate whether or not you need to clay. Wash and dry your vehicle, put a plastic sandwich bag over your hand and lightly rub your fingertips over the paint. If it feels gritty or rough, your paint is contaminated.
Use a high quality detailing clay bar and a clay lubricant to clean your paint before applying wax or polish.
The Bag test will tell you if you need to use detailing clay.
Waxes and paint sealants will adhere better to clean paint and the shine will be more uniform and vibrant. Sounds like a win-win situation!

To Use Clay:
Clay is available in 2 to 8 oz. bars. Two ounces is enough to do three or four vehicles. On average, a vehicle will need to be clayed twice a year. At this rate, one 2 oz. clay bar will last you 18 months to 2 years if used on the same vehicle.
NOTE: To optimize both the quality of your claying and the clay's useful life, avoid soap and water as a lubricant. They will prematurely deteriorate today’s clay compounds. Use only clay lubricants.
Wash and dry your vehicle.
Spray a small area with clay lubricant, no bigger than 2 square feet.
Gently rub the clay bar back and forth across the wet area. It will grab at first. This means that it is pulling contaminants out of the paint. When it glides
freely, the paint is clean.
Wipe the area with a microfiber towel and use the clay lubricant to remove any clay residue. Rub your fingers across the paint now; it should be as smooth as glass. If it’s not, repeat the process. Reshape the clay bar as needed to expose a clean surface. Keep the clay well-lubricated.
Continue these steps until you’ve clayed the entire vehicle. Clay does a marvelous job on glass and chrome, too.
Store the clay bar in its original case if possible, or in an airtight plastic bag. Spray it with lubricant to keep it moist. Do not allow the clay to freeze and do not store it in temperatures above 200° F.

Quick review guide:
Mist a 2 x 2 sq. ft. section of paint with clay lubricant.
Rub the clay bar across the wet paint until it no longer grabs the surface.

Always follow claying with a wax or sealant. Clay will remove existing wax and may leave tiny holes where contaminants have been removed. They must be sealed in order to protect the paint from corrosion.

Note: Detailing clay does not remove oxidized paint or fill in blemishes. If your paint is mildly oxidized, clean the paint with clay and then use a polish to remove the oxidized paint. If the oxidation is severe, polish first because the oxidized paint may flake off as you clay and ruin the clay bar.

Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew info@AutoPlusDetailing.com

Show your ride to win great prizes! How detailed is your ride?

We want to see how you have used the tips and advice from AutoPlus Detailing to detail your ride.  Share a before and after picture along with a short description of the steps involved, and post the photo's on our FaceBook page.  At the end of this weekend, on March 28, 2010, we will select the top three detailing jobs.  The top three ride will receive the same detailing products that we use at AutoPlus Motorcars.  Let's see those reflections!

First place will receive Meguiar's car wash and wax kit!

Second place will receive Meguiar's NXT Wash!

 Third place will receive Black Magic Tire Wet Foam!

Good Luck to all those who enter!
Be sure to post all photo's and descriptions on AutoPlus's fan page.

Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew info@AutoPlusDetailing.com

Meguiars Soft Wash Gel Review

This is remarkably thick car wash gel that is super rich and super concentrated. It is unlike any other car wash on the market. It blends expensive conditioners and optical brighteners to enhance the brilliance of the paint finish...and it won't strip off wax protection.
So far, this is the best car wash soap/gel we have used. This product really makes the water sheet out evenly over the whole car.  Even tho you should always dry your car with a shammy, if you wash it properly with a wash mit and make sure to get every spot, you almost dont have to dry it off because it will dry so evenly.  At a price point of under $8 we highly recommend this product.







Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew info@AutoPlusDetailing.com

Dangers of touchless/ drive through car washes

Touchless car washes today use Hydrofluoric acid as a first step and then an alkaline to neutralize the acid then high pressure water to wash cars. Hand washing is MUCH preferred, don’t use an automated car wash period, touch less or not, there are a variety of reasons: You should never, under any circumstances use a car wash that requires you to let another person drive your vehicle onto the ramps or into the wash, notice the disclaimer

“No responsibility for damage to customer’s vehicle.”

Local by-laws require car washes to re-claim or recycle water. This means they have two choices.
a) They can collect the water in tanks and pay to truck it away to a recycling centre.
b) They can filter and then recycle the water (dependant on how often the filters are cleaned/changed) will effect how much dirt content there is. Recycled meaning re-use the same water, which may include any road dirt/grit that is not filtered out is used to high-pressure (1,000PSI) wash your vehicle (somewhat similar to sandblasting) the final rinse is usually twice-filtered re-cycled water, this is to give the appearance of a clean surface on the vehicle.
c) To help clean the recycled water they use a chemical like Presidium Orthophosphate (TSP) and have the chemical formula Na3PO4. It is a highly water-soluble ionic salt. Solutions of it dissolved in water have an alkaline pH; this does a great job stripping your wax / sealant. TSP is generally not good for cleaning vehicles because it can corrode metal.

Other thnigs to consider before using a drive through car wash:

•To remove snow/sand/road dirt and grit without agitation (brushes etc) requires the use of very strong chemical cleaners.
•Probably the most important is that this type of automatic car wash use high-pressure water and strong alkaline detergent to clean vehicles that will strip the wax/polish
•You will also need to renew the vehicles sealant / wax to ensure the paint surface protection on a regular basis to counteract the effects of the harsh detergents.
•Also be aware of those that use ‘wheel guides’ as they will cause scratches / etching to the wheel surfaces, as many wash facilities will not accommodate either the tyre width or the clearance, thus causing sidewall damage
•Vehicle with lower than ‘standard’ suspension (Corvette C6 and other sports cars) should also be aware the wheel guides could cause body damage
•As an alternative in colder winter months I would suggest using a waterless vehicle cleaning product Protect All’s Quick Easy Wash (QEW)
•If you get a chance, attend a car wash / wax vendors symposiums where they give demonstrations of the different soap products that these type of facilities use, as a Chemical Engineer they scare me.. You'll come away a convert to never using them again, on any vehicle.

If you have no choice but to use a touchless car wash check out this article for tips on what to look for. Tips for driving through car wash

remember that the best way to keep your car looking it's best is by using our step by step guide on the proper way to wash your car. Proper Washing and Drying Techniques 

Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew @ UrbanAndrew@gmail.com

Photo's from our upcoming DVD- remove scratches that are to the metal

Learn to remove scratches that are all the way down to the metal.  With the easy how to steps in our DVD you will be able to remove deep scratches without repainting the door. Learn other tips and tricks that will not only save you a lot of money but also time.

Here we can see the scratch all the way to the metal on the car door.

A glaze compound is added as the last step to ensure the repainted scratch is no longer visivle







Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew @ UrbanAndrew@gmail.com

Follow AutoPlus Detailing

AutoPlus Detailing now has a FaceBook fan page along with a twitter feed. Follow us on both to receive valuable tips and tricks not listed on our blog.

AutoPlus Detailing- Auto Detailing Tips and Tricks on Facebook

Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew @ UrbanAndrew@gmail.com
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How to Remove Scratches From Car Paint

Getting a scratch out of car paint can be easy or difficult, depending on the type of paint job on the vehicle. If you have a special paint job, such as candy apple, you will need to repaint the entire area of the car (fender, door). Even then, with a candy apple paint job, it will never look exactly right. If you have a standard paint job, you can easily repair a scratch in the paint, especially if the paint process used base coat-clear coat. If a base coat-clear coat procedure was used on the vehicle, and the scratch is not deep, you can easily repair the clear coat layer.

Things You'll Need:

• 3M Glazing compound
• Makita Buffer
• Buffing pad
• Wet-dry sandpaper, 2,000 grit

 

 

1. 
   
    Step 1
   Prepare the area to be repaired by wet sanding the scratch and an area of 2 inches larger than the scratch in all directions. Wet sand lightly (using the 600 grit wet-dry sandpaper), making sure there to use plenty of water. If the scratch is in the clear coat only, you may be able to rub the scratch out. Skip Steps 2 and 3 and continue with Step 5 if the scratch is only in the clear coat.
   
   
   
   
2. 
   
    Step 2
   Continue to wet sand the area until the scratch starts to fade. If the scratch is embedded deeply into the paint, you will need to take some of the paint off the area around the scratch. The deeper the scratch, the larger area around the scratch should be sanded out so that there will not be a "dip" in the paint. This will help feather the new paint into the existing paint on the vehicle. You may not be able to get the scratch to noticeably fade if it is more of a gouge than a scratch.
   
    
   Step 3
   Fill the scratch with thick primer. This primer is advertised as "scratch filling" primer. Hold the can 2 to 3 inches from the area being repaired and spray the sanded area lightly. Allow the primer to dry. If the scratch is very deep or if it is a gouge, fill the scratch or gouge with glazing compound. Allow the compound to dry, then wet sand it smooth. If you can still feel the scratch or gouge, add another coat of glazing compound. Let it dry, then wet sand it.
   
   Step 4
   Spray the vehicle paint over the primer. You will need to spray at least two coats of paint over the area. Allow each coat to dry, then wet sand each coat. When the paint is closest to the color of the rest of the car, you will have enough coats of paint. Keep the spray can at least 2 to 3 inches away from the area being painted. Use a light touch, spraying lightly over the area so as not to create runs in the paint (a run is when the fresh paint drips down the side of the vehicle). Allow the work to dry for at least 24 hours.
   
   Step 5
   Spray the repaired area with clear coat. Allow the clear coat to dry, then wet sand it with 2,000 grit wet-dry sand paper to smooth the paint. Add a second coat of clear coat.
   
   Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew @ UrbanAndrew@gmail.com

Engine Detailing- Clean and Protect your Engine

Engine detailing is nothing more than cleaning the exterior of the engine and the engine compartment, and applying dressing to protect and beautify the engine.  It's very easy to do, and requires no more than 45 minutes to an hour every couple of months.

ENGINE DETAILING
The first step in cleaning your engine is to remove the excess debris that gets trapped in your hood, grille and vent openings.  This is particularly true if you live in an area with four seasons.  If you have compressed air available, this is the best way to remove old leaves, dead cats and such.  If you don't, a simple hand brush will suffice.
The next very important step is to prepare your engine for getting wet.  You must cover all sensors, the distributor, spark plug openings and any electrical devices that have the potential for water accumulation (which could cause a short).  Use plastic baggies to cover these items.  Be sure to use tape or rubber bands to hold the plastic bags in place.  You're only trying to prevent the majority of the water from getting in; it does not need to be watertight.  The engine environment should already be waterproof.  The baggies are just a precaution.
To loosen the grease accumulated on your engine and the engine compartment, start your engine and allow it to warm for a few minutes.  The best temperature for cleaning your engine is warm to the touch, but not hot.  If you're able to hold your hand to the engine without saying "Ouch," then the temperature is just about right.

APPLYING DEGREASER

After warming the engine and protecting sensitive areas, you're ready to apply your engine degreaser.  Although they are quick and easy, I warn people against the use of harsh petroleum-based cleaners in the engine compartment.  They quickly cut through grease and grime, but they also deteriorate your rubber and vinyl components (not to mention what they do to our environment!).  As an alternative, use a citrus- or water-based cleaner.  My  favorite is DP Engine Degreaser.
When applying your engine degreaser, it's best to start from the lower areas and work your way up.  This prevents the degreaser from dripping on you as you clean the underside areas.  One important thing to remember: the engine degreaser will remove the wax from the painted surfaces of your car.  If you get degreaser overspray on your fenders, plan on re-waxing these areas.
When you have applied your engine degreaser, be sure to wash any excess cleaner from the exterior painted surfaces of the fenders, hood and grille.  I like to spray these areas with water first.
Depending on the amount of accumulated grease, allow the degreaser to soak on the engine for 3 to 5 minutes.  Do not allow the degreaser to dry on your engine.  For light to mild levels of grease, you will not need to use a brush on the engine and other surfaces.  For heavy soil, you can use a long-handled brush (parts brush) and car wash solution to provide additional cleaning action prior to hosing off the degreaser.

Use a soft parts cleaning brush get into cracks and around parts.  If your engine compartment has a heavy accumulation of dirt, you may need to spray with cleaner, brush, and rinse several times. An old toothbrush works great in tight areas that other brushes can't reach.

 

HOSING ENGINE OFF

When you are ready to remove the degreaser, hose down the entire engine compartment and surrounding surfaces with plenty of water.  If you're using a high-pressure nozzle, be careful that you don't get the nozzle too close to the covered electrical connectors.  Allow your engine to air dry for several minutes before using a towel to wipe down all accessible parts.  Remove the plastic bags.  The heat from the engine will assist in the drying process; however, do not allow the engine to air dry, as this will result in water spots.  When dry, start your engine and allow it to run for a few minutes.
*Here's a handy tip for you.  After your final rinse use your vacuum (if it can blow forced air) or an air compressor to blow water off the engine for a spot-free finish.  The Metro Full Size Vac N' Blo 4.0 HP Vacuum makes quick work of the job.

Rinse with a stiff stream of water to remove as much of the grease and grime as possible.  Be sure to avoid electrical connections and other sensitive areas.  After rinsing, start the engine immediately.  Allow it to run for about 5 minutes to help dry things out.

 

PROTECT AND BEAUTIFY

When everything is dry, and your engine has cooled, you should apply a coating of engine protectant.  If you don't have an engine protectant, use your rubber and vinyl protectant to coat your hoses, wires, and plastic shields.  To add a quick shine and protection to the painted surfaces in the engine compartment, use a high-quality detailing spray.  Just spray it on all surfaces, and wipe off the excess with a clean terry cloth towel.
After drying the engine, spray all of the rubber hoses and plastic parts with a rubber and vinyl protectant, like Sonus Total Eclipse.  Wipe off excess protectant and buff to a nice satin finish.  NOTE: This is only short-term protection.  For long-term protection, you will need to apply a coating of Sonus Trim and Motor Kote or the latest sealant product, Ultima Tire & Trim Guard Plus. 
Don't underestimate the need to protect your engine after detailing.  The factory applies a heavy coating of high temperature wax that protects for several years.  When you remove this coating corrosion will begin.  One of the few products available to do a proper job is Acrylic Spray Sealant.  It is a spray on and walk away product. Before using mask off engine with plastic or large detailing towels.  This will help avoid a big clean up mess.

 CAR ENGINE DETAILING SUMMARY

Many car enthusiasts find that detailing their engine is just the beginning of a long road toward engine beautification.  Other embellishments include polishing aluminum parts, painting key parts with bright colors, and adding chrome.  Whatever you choose, make it your style, and have fun.

Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew @ UrbanAndrew@gmail.com

Care for Your Trim and Molding

In recent years, black plastic trim has become popular among auto manufacturers – think of the Nissan X Terra, the Hummer H2, and the Jeep Wrangler. All these vehicles have two things in common: #1 they have black molding either over the wheels or on the front, or both; #2 they’re rugged, off-roading vehicles that incur more abuse than your average sedan. For these two reasons, you have to apply protectant to these pieces. If you don’t, they’ll turn gray faster than you can say “low resale value”.
This tutorial will make some suggestions on how best to keep your dark trim and moldings looking like new.

Regular Maintenance Wash. Wash the trim and moldings each time you wash your vehicle. On textured pieces, use a Pinnacle Detailing Brush found in the Detailer's Choice 6-Piece Brush Detailing Kit. For larger pieces of trim, you might find it easier to use the Mothers Wheel & Wheel Well Long Handled Brush. A brush will allow you to pull contaminants out of the pores of the material. These contaminants may be contributing to the discoloration of the rubber or plastic. Avoid using stiff bristle brushes on smooth black plastic; it will scratch. Undress. If you already have a dressing on the trim and molding, clean it off periodically. Layering dressings will eventually result in discoloration because the outermost layers are not curing to the rubber; they are just sitting on top of old layers. Take a moment to clean off old dressings at least every two months using DP Cleanse-All Exterior Cleaner 32oz.. Spray your California Microfiber Towel 6 Pack and wipe down the trim pieces to avoid over spray. Protect. Once your vehicle is clean and dried, you need to protect the trim pieces with a quality rubber, vinyl, and plastic protectant. This will help prevent future UV degradation, which is the primary cause of fading. Meguiar's M4016 #40 Vinyl/Rubber Cleaner 16 oz. and 303 Aerospace Protectant 8oz. are both exceptional products. They both provide excellent UV protection with a non-greasy, satin finish. Use a Cobra Microfiber Applicator Pad 6 Pack Bulk to spread the protectant over the surface. It will provide an even coat without dripping or running. I apply protectant to my vehicles once a month because the sun is intense in Florida, but once every two months is probably sufficient in most climates. When applying protectant, don’t skip the wiper cowl (the plastic piece at the bottom of the windshield), the mirrors (if applicable), and window and door moldings. Use a detailing swab to apply protectant in tight spaces. Open your doors and apply protectant to the rubber gaskets, too. If they become dry or brittle, they will not effectively keep out air and road noise. Meguiar's G11500 Gold Class Protectant Wipes are a convenient way to protect and preserve rubber gaskets. Just use a pre-moistened wipe to apply a layer of patented protection.

Restoration If your black trim and molding have already faded, there are options to restore them. Forever Black is a black dye for coarse rubber and plastic pieces. The dye contains UV protectants to prevent future fading and its polymer formula ensures lasting color. Forever Black is a permanent dye so use care when applying it. In fact, test it out on an inconspicuous area before applying to all the trim. Keep in mind that it will not be able to absorb evenly into smooth plastic. The Forever Black Bumper & Trim Dye Kit comes with a cleaner and a bottle of dye. The dye has a sponge-tip right on the bottle for easy application. Turn the bottle upside down and press it against something to get the dye flowing. Spread a thin, even coat over the surface and allow it to dry for 20 minutes. No buffing is required. It may take a couple of coats to get the desired shade of black. If your trim isn’t quite black or you have smooth plastic surfaces, another option is Black Wow.This is a long-lasting product that significantly darkens the color of the plastic or rubber. It takes very little Black WOW to get great results. Start with a pea-sized amount on a foam applicator and spread it as far as it will go.

Use these tips to give the trim on your car that deep wet black look all year round.  With some simple maintenance once a month you can keep your car looking great with little effort.

Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew @ UrbanAndrew@gmail.com

New Store is Open!!

Check out our new AutoPlus Detailing store at the top of this page.  Find all the products you need to make sure your car is in show condition all year round.

Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew @ UrbanAndrew@gmail.com

Five Steps to keep your car looking its best.

1. Avoid scratches as much as possible We start with scratches. Why? Because they are the biggest enemy to your car's finish. And avoiding scratches is the secret to keeping your car looking good. Dirt and grime, rubbed in while washing or drying, will act like sandpaper and dull your car's paint. There is one basic rule which will guide you whenever you touch the surface of your automobile:

Anything that comes in contact with your car's finish should be soft.

2. As much as possible, protect your cars finish from the elements.

This means storing the car in a garage or covered area. Also, the use of a car cover is highly recommended. A car that is constantly exposed to sunlight and other environmental hazards will deteriorate quicker and require significantly more cosmetic maintenance.

3. Always keep a good coat of wax or paint sealant on the car.

In addition to providing gloss and depth, wax will also protect your car from the elements, including sunlight and many other circumstances that you will encounter, from bug carcasses to bird droppings.

4. Be aware of your car's finish.

Make regular quick inspections of your cars surface a habit. Look it over and note its condition, keeping in mind its recent history and what you anticipate will happen in the future.

5. Make a habit of detailing your car.

In most cases, washing your car once a month is adequate. Once every two weeks is better and necessary if the car is subject to harsh conditions.


Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew @ UrbanAndrew@gmail.com

Powered Buffer Polishing Guide

This simple step-by-step guide will explain how to use your circular polisher to remove paint imperfections and rapidly improve the quality of your finish. Keep in mind, circular polishers offer complete removal of scratches and swirls, but there is a learning curve. If you are inexperienced with machine polishing, start with a dual action polisher and become familiar with the process. Once you become comfortable, graduate to the circular polisher.
What is a circular polisher?
A circular polisher is sometimes referred to as a rotary or high-speed polisher. It’s called “circular” because the head spins on one axis. It spins typically from 600-3000 RPMs. This single motion allows a circular polisher to level the clear coat that surrounds a scratch so that the scratch’s “edges” disappear. Professionals who want to completely remove a deep scratch must use a circular polisher.

The heat is on! Circular polishers get much hotter than dual action polishers because the pad is spinning at a high speed. You MUST keep a circular polisher moving at all times so this heat doesn’t concentrate on one spot. It will burn through the paint in seconds.You can minimize the risk by practicing on scrap car panels before you attempt any work on your own vehicle. You can pick up old parts at your local junk yard for a fee, but it’s definitely cheaper than repainting your vehicle! Popular models of circular polishers are the Advanced Tool Design Model ATD-10511 7-Inch Polisher, FLEX L3403 VRG Lightweight Circular Polisher 5.5 inch Pad Kit, Milwaukee 5540 11 Amp 7-Inch Polisher, DEWALT DW849 8.0 Amp 7-Inch/9-Inch Electronic Variable Speed Right Angle Polisher, and our personal Favorite the Makita 9227C 7-Inch Hook and Loop Electronic Polisher/Sander.

A Few Facts about Clearcoat

So you may understand the thickness of clear coat, think of the cellophane wrapper on a pack of cigarettes. Remove it and press the two sides together. This thickness represents the depth of clear coat that protects your vehicle's pigment layer. The outer surface of the clear coat is the “hardest” and “densest” and is impregnated with the critical UV protection. This surface - assaulted by bugs, bird droppings and acid rain - gets worn away revealing the softer, underlying clear coat. This makes clear coat "fixable", meaning swirls and scratches can be removed with a polisher.

The Paint Facts - Typical Industry Paint Thickness Specs.

E-Coat 1.3 mil - Electrocoat is an anticorrosion coat applied to both sides of the steel to prevent corrosion (rust).

Surface Primer 0.7 mil - Initial protection layer with texture to assist the pigment layer in bonding to the metal beneath.

Base Coat 0.6 mil The basecoat is usually 0.5 to 1 mil thick (1,000 mils equal one inch).

Clear Coat 1.9 mil - The clearcoat provides gloss for that "wet look," plus physical protection from the elements, including ultraviolet rays. The clear coat is usually between 1.5 and 2 mils thick.

As you can see, the clear coat is very thin. So, while you can polish out scratches, you must use great care with a circular polisher to avoid burning the paint.
Polishing Tips

• First and foremost, keep the polisher moving at all times. Never let a circular polisher rest on the paint. It will burn through the clear coat.
• Work at a slow speed, between 1000-1200 RPM. A circular polisher is capable of getting very hot, especially at high speeds. While a little heat can make the clear coat more malleable, too much will burn the paint. Keep it slow.
• Work the pad flat against the paint or with the back edge of the pad tilted very slightly upward (that's the edge closest to you). This position will help you avoid dragging the edge on the paint, which creates holograms or what some detailers call "cookie-cutting".

What problems can a circular polisher correct?

A circular polisher can remove almost any scratches or swirls and most oxidation, as long as they do not penetrate beneath the clear coat. A good way of assessing a scratch is to run your fingernail over it. If your fingernail catches in the scratch; that generally means it is too deep to be removed without professional help. Scratches and swirls that extend through to the color coat will require repainting or a touch-up at the very least. Do not attempt to remove these scratches because you can remove the entire clear coat, resulting in paint system failure.

That said, many detailers enjoy the high speed performance and quick paint correction of a circular/rotary polisher. All it takes is practice and a steady hand to master the art of machine polishing.

For a detailed step by step DVD of all the Polishing steps find out about our detailed, Auto Detailing DVD. Email UrbanAndrew@gmail.com

Review of Meguiars Hi Tech Yellow Wax (aka #26)

Meguiars has two lines, consumer (Meguiars brand), and professional (Mirror Glaze). In the professional line the products are known by their numbers. Mirror Glaze 26 is their blend of carnauba wax, polymers, other waxes and silicones. All I can say is that this is another great product from Meguiars. Goes on easy and more importantly comes off easier than any other wax I've tried. I was able to wax and un-wax a Lincoln Aviator in around an hour and a half. This wax is best suited for dark color cars and is perfect for daily drivers.




Manufacturer Description: Hi-Tech Yellow Wax is a premium yellow Carnauba wax blended with silicones, polymers and other waxes. Adds richness and depth of color. Provides ultimate high gloss protection to any previously cleaned and polished paint finish. Available in liquid or paste.

Auto Leather Care

If leather is to retain its beauty, it must be cared for, cleaned and conditioned. It’s much easier to spend a little time protecting and conditioning your fine leather upholstery than spending the energy and money to salvage it. Keeping your leather in good condition begins with a regular wipe down with your favorite one-step cleaner. Our daily “one-step” starts with Pinnacle Leather Cleaner/Conditioner on a Cobra Microfiber Towel.

Have seen leather that has been ignored and mistreated? What remains is dried, prematurely aged, and cracked leather. Without proper care and conditioning your leather will age rapidly, losing its luster and flexibility. This process is rapidly accelerated in warmer climates. Regular cleaning and conditioning is all it takes to keep leather looking fresh, supple, and soft.

What Is Proper Leather Care?
Leather surfaces are just like beautiful, delicate skin. Leather must be carefully cleansed before it can be properly conditioned. As leather ages, it loses essential protectants infused into the leather during the manufacturing process. That leaves the leather susceptible to dirt, oils, and UV damage. To keep leather looking and feeling its best, you must first clean it and then replace the lost moisture and protection.

The Two-Step Solution!
Pinnacle Leather and Vinyl Cleaner, a pure cleaner, free of petroleum solvents, silicone oils or gloss agents, penetrates deep into every pore. It should be applied with a Microfiber Applicator Pad, or a Leather and Vinyl Scrub Brush. Agitation, not scrubbing, is the key. This agitation opens pores and allows dirt and body oils to rise to the surface of the leather where it can be wiped away.

After a thorough cleansing, your leather is ready for step two: application of a quality conditioner, like market leaders, Wolfgang Leather Care Conditioner or Pinnacle Leather Conditioner. These conditioners are calibrated to nourish and moisturize. They are engineered at a molecular level, to absorb deep into the fibers' cells, allowing these fibers to retain their resilience, and thereby inhibit premature aging. Proper conditioning allows fibers to retain flexibility and softness.

CAUTION! Often inexpensive brands of leather conditioners contain gloss agents and petroleum distillates, silicone or silicone oils, which cling to the surface and then are wiped onto clothing. They leave a greasy finish that can transfer to clothing. For the health of your leather, choose a water-based, pH-balanced leather conditioner.

Many popular conditioners, like Lexol Spray Leather Conditioner and the product recommended especially for the Bentley, Jaguar and Rolls lines, Connolly Hide Care Conditioner, are pH balanced, have stain repellants, and waterproofing agents to protect your beautiful interior from accidents. The Wolfgang Leather Care Cockpit Kit contains all the tools you’ll need, AND Wolfgang's leather products are pH balanced. If you only want the best for both leather and vinyl, there is simply no better comprehensive choice for ”state of the art” cleaners, conditioners and applicators than our specially packaged, Pinnacle Concours Interior Kit.

With a little time and the right chemicals, your vehicle's leather will remain soft, supple, and inviting for years to come!

Proper Washing & Drying Technique

Are you washing your car, or just damaging the paint?
Most of the swirl marks that disfigure your vehicle are likely caused by poor washing technique. Thorough weekly washes and careful hand-drying can be the best care you can give your vehicle. Improper techniques will cause unsightly swirls and scratches in the paint requiring compounding or polishing at the very least. You can eliminate these problems and save yourself extra work by following a few simple tips when washing and drying your vehicle.

Are you washing weekly or weakly?
Weekly washing is best because some contaminants quickly do serious long term damage to paint if they are allowed to remain. Two such organic compounds are bug remains and bird droppings. These bio-hazards contain complex proteins that bond to the surface and organic acids that penetrate and break down the surface, eating into your clear coat if not removed promptly. Weak spots in the clear coat make your vehicle susceptible to corrosion and discoloration.

Another problem contaminant is brake dust. It contains metal shavings from the rotors and adhesives used in the production of brake pads. Try to picture the dirty plume of brake dust and roadway chemicals that travels along with a moving vehicle. This fog of chemicals shower the lower portion of your vehicle with a clinging, nearly invisible mist. Brake dust itself, is highly corrosive and very sticky. Washing your vehicle weekly will remove these contaminants before they have the opportunity to do unsightly permanent damage.

Wash Tools
First Never wash in direct sunlight. Pick a shady spot. Second it’s very important to choose tools that are gentle on the paint, yet still effective at removing contamination. As a rule of thumb, sponges and mitts that are plush or have a deep nap are better than flat weave towels or dense sponges. For example, a Natural Sea Sponge has numerous deep compartments where dirt and debris can accumulate. The natural fibers themselves will not scratch the paint and they will essentially pull contamination into the sponge’s openings, away from the paint. Always use the softer side of the sponge for washing. Rinse new sea sponges thoroughly before use to remove any shell fragments or sand.

Another option is a Sheepskin Wash Mitt. Sheepskin is extremely soft and plush. The fibers are gentle on the paint while the nap is deep enough to accommodate loose dirt and sand so they do not rub against the vehicle. Because sheepskin is natural, it does not last as long as a Microfiber mitts. However, for luxurious softness, you can’t beat the texture of sheepskin.

Microfiber wash mitts are another paint-safe option. Microfiber’s combination of polyester and polyamide make it capable of scrubbing the paint without scratching or swirling. It traps dirt and grit within the fibers rather than leaving them on the surface of your vehicle. Be sure to rinse the mitt frequently to release these particles.

Cotton chenille pads and mitts are also good choices because they clean easily and they last longer than sheepskin or natural sea sponges.

Proper Washing
1. Wash the wheels and tires first. If you splash wheel cleaners or dirt onto your vehicle, you can simply wash it off as you wash your vehicle. Use a cleaner that is safe for all wheels, like Wolfgang Tire & Wheel Cleaner. It is water-based and has no corrosive chemicals, which is safer for coated wheels and rubber. Agitate with a wheel brush to clean wheels without scratching. Wash each wheel and tire one at a time and rinse thoroughly before moving on to the next one. NOW EMPTY AND RINSE ALL CLEANING MARTERIALS including your Pinnacle Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Sponge and your wash bucket.

2. Now you’re ready to wash. Let’s start with clean water and a freshly rinsed container and our Cobra Microfiber Wash Mitt. It’s important to use a car wash that is rich in lubricants. The purpose of the car wash is to remove contaminants and lubricate them so they do not scratch the paint as they slide off the vehicle. Dish detergents are not ideal because they remove protective coatings. P21S Bodywork Conditioning Shampoo, DP Auto Wash and Pinnacle Bodywork Shampoo are all fantastic choices. They do not remove wax and provide ample lubrication of gritty particles.

3. How do you prevent swirl marks? Use two buckets. Fill one bucket with soapy water and fill the other with clean water. Each time you’re ready to reload your sponge with soapy water, dip it in the clean water first, to rinse out the grit and contamination you’ve just removed from your vehicle. Then dip it in the soapy water and continue washing.

An even better option is the Grit Guard. This plastic grid sits in the bottom of a 5-gallon wash bucket and stabilizes the water. Contamination and particles settle to the bottom of the bucket and the clean wash water remains at the top.

4. Always rinse your vehicle thoroughly before you begin washing in order to remove loose debris. Then begin washing at the top of the vehicle. Wash down the vehicle as opposed to front to back. Remember that the lower panels are dirtiest. You want to clean the windows and the upper panels before cleaning the lower half of the vehicle so that you don’t transfer grit to the top half of the vehicle. Rinse and reload your Sponge often to prevent cross-contamination. Rinse your vehicle frequently as you work, especially in hot weather.

For stubborn spots, like bugs or tar, use the Pinnacle Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Sponge to gently remove sticky contaminants without scratching. To soften the sponge, soak it in warm water for 3 minutes. Always use it with soapy water to lubricate the sponge. If you choose to use a spot cleaner, spray it on before washing and reapply wax to the treated area after you’ve dried the vehicle.

5. When rinsing, you don’t have to blast your car clean with the water hose. Free-flowing water (no nozzle) will allow the water to sheet off of your vehicle for a more thorough rinsing.

Drying
Never skip drying! Drying your vehicle after washing is necessary to prevent water spots. Water spots are caused by mineral deposits that etch the outline of a drop of water into your vehicle’s paint. All water has minerals, whether it’s from the hose or the sky. As the water evaporates, the minerals remain on the surface and they will eventually, invariably create water spots.

You can dry your vehicle in a variety of ways, but you want to make sure you do it quickly. The fastest way to remove excess water is with a California Water Blade. This is a “paint-safe” squeegee that pull 80% of the water off the surface of your vehicle. They are made of soft, medical-grade silicone so they will not scratch your paint or glass. Use the blade on the windows first, since water spots are most noticeable there. Or for a TOTALLY TURBO-CHARGED fast drying experience go with Metro Vac N’Blo for a flawless finish. This is the ultimate detailing tool, for clean up and dry down. This portable unit comes complete with a four piece micro-cleaning tool kit, shoulder strap and blower nozzle.

If you use a California Water Blade you still need to use a towel to remove the rest of the water. The Guzzler is a large 20" x 40" microfiber towel that is manufactured with a waffle-weave texture. This weave increases the surface area so the towel can absorb more water. It can absorb 7 times its own weight in moisture, and it’s completely nonabrasive. Microfiber towels come in a number of sizes and they can be altered for a specific purpose. For example, the Cobra Waffle-Weave Glass Towel will clean and dry glass without streaks. Microfiber is more absorbent than terry cloth or chamois, and it lasts longer.

Terry cloth towels are not recommended because the fibers can become matted and hard after repeated uses. They shed lint. They increase the chance of swirls. Compared to microfiber, they are not as absorbent and they don’t last as long. Never use bath towels that have been discarded from the house. They are probably not soft or paint safe. All Cobra Microfiber Towels are engineered to be LINT-FREE!

You may also use a genuine or synthetic chamois. The Prince of Wales Chamois is 100% leather and it’s extremely soft. Its luxurious texture makes it a pleasure to use, but it will not last as long as a synthetic chamois. Do not continue using it after it becomes hard.

Drying Tips
1. Dry the windows and mirrors first. A series of careful firm strokes with your California Water Blade will remove any remaining water.

2. Use the large The Supreme Guzzler to remove the majority of water from your vehicle. This towel measures 20”x 40” and it absorbs seven times its own weight in moisture. Go back over the vehicle with a smaller towel, like the The Guzzler(16”x 24”) to catch any water the large towel may have missed. This quick two-step process will leave your vehicle bone-dry and ready for wax.

3. Once the outside is dry, wipe down all your door jambs. Open the trunk and hood to wipe the jambs. Our Cobra Microfiber Starter Kit can get your vehicle dry and spotless with the best in LINT-FREE drying technology.

4. Dry your wheels using a towel or chamois that is designated just for this purpose. Don’t use this towel on your paint to avoid cross-contamination. You may also use this towel to wipe off surfaces under the hood. Wash this towel before you use it again.

The Finishing Touch
Use a spray wax or spray sealant like Mothers Showtime Detailer or Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant to rejuvenate the shine of your existing wax. Skip this step if you are going to apply another coat of wax. The ultimate in finishing detail kits is the Pinnacle –Wolfgang Souverän Kit; two premium brands come together to make the ultimate detailing kit.