Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Proper use auto detailing clay

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Auto Detailing Clay Basics

If detailing clay is new to you, you might be thinking, “What is detailing clay and what can detailing clay do for my car?” The short answer is that auto detailing clay removes from the paint what washing cannot. For the long answer, read on!
Auto Detailing Clay Bar is an engineered resin compound used to remove contaminants from the surface of your car’s paint, glass, fiberglass and metal. Detailing clay can be natural or synthetic, though most manufacturers utilize synthetic clays.
Auto detailing clay is similar to the stuff you played with as a kid, but the clay used for detailing is usually much more elastic. The elasticity gives the detailing clay excellent durability as it is rolled, flattened, smashed and stretched over and over again.
Plus detailing clay is designed to stand up to the kind of contaminants that your childhood clay never had to face, i.e. industrial fallout, rail dust and brake dust. These contaminants pierce paint finishes, glass and metal and remain stuck on your vehicle through rain, car washes, and even polishing. The only way to remove these pollutants is detailing clay.

How Does Auto Detailing Clay Work?

Detailing clay glides along the surface of your paint and grabs anything that protrudes from the surface. The particles stick to the clay and therefore is removed from your vehicle. The surface being clayed should always be wet with clay lubricant to prevent loose debris from scratching the vehicle.

Used properly, detailing clay is completely safe and nonabrasive. Its a much better option than polishing to remove these contaminants because clay doesn’t remove any paint.
There are two different grades of clay currently available to the public. One is a medium grade detailing clay designed to clean the vehicle once or twice a year. This grade of clay removes wax along with anything else on the vehicle. We’re talking CLEAN.
Your other option is a fine grade that’s relatively new to the industry. This detailing clay removes everything the medium clay removes and it is gentle enough to use monthly or as needed for spot cleaning. If you’re someone who’s meticulous about clean, shiny paint this clay is for you.
All detailing clay requires the use of a clay lubricant to prevent scratches as you gently rub the clay on the vehicle. 

What Does Detailing Clay Remove?
Your vehicle is under constant assault from airborne pollutants. Brake dust, industrial fallout, acid rain deposits and rail dust all can adhere to your vehicle. These contaminants often contain metal particulates, which accounts for the ease with which they penetrate the clear coat to attack the paint below. These contaminants then oxidize, and they allow rust to spread beneath the clear coat. Tiny orange spots today, total paint system failure tomorrow! Detailing clay removes these contaminants in
order to keep the paint healthy and vibrant.
Detailing Clay also removes stubborn sap, tar, and bug remains. Detailing clay works wonder on glass as well. Try some the next time you’re washing your windows. You’ll be amazed at the results!

Do You Need To Clay?
Chances are, the answer is yes. The surface of your vehicle faces assaults from the environment every time it’s out in the weather. Each road trip brings new insults from roadway debris, exhaust films, and airborne pollution. They will splash, mar, and embed themselves in that beautiful paint job you’ve labored over. Vehicles can accumulate these contaminants any time, any place – even at the dealership.
The Bag Test: There’s a simple test that will indicate whether or not you need to clay. Wash and dry your vehicle, put a plastic sandwich bag over your hand and lightly rub your fingertips over the paint. If it feels gritty or rough, your paint is contaminated.
Use a high quality detailing clay bar and a clay lubricant to clean your paint before applying wax or polish.
The Bag test will tell you if you need to use detailing clay.
Waxes and paint sealants will adhere better to clean paint and the shine will be more uniform and vibrant. Sounds like a win-win situation!

To Use Clay:
Clay is available in 2 to 8 oz. bars. Two ounces is enough to do three or four vehicles. On average, a vehicle will need to be clayed twice a year. At this rate, one 2 oz. clay bar will last you 18 months to 2 years if used on the same vehicle.
NOTE: To optimize both the quality of your claying and the clay's useful life, avoid soap and water as a lubricant. They will prematurely deteriorate today’s clay compounds. Use only clay lubricants.
Wash and dry your vehicle.
Spray a small area with clay lubricant, no bigger than 2 square feet.
Gently rub the clay bar back and forth across the wet area. It will grab at first. This means that it is pulling contaminants out of the paint. When it glides
freely, the paint is clean.
Wipe the area with a microfiber towel and use the clay lubricant to remove any clay residue. Rub your fingers across the paint now; it should be as smooth as glass. If it’s not, repeat the process. Reshape the clay bar as needed to expose a clean surface. Keep the clay well-lubricated.
Continue these steps until you’ve clayed the entire vehicle. Clay does a marvelous job on glass and chrome, too.
Store the clay bar in its original case if possible, or in an airtight plastic bag. Spray it with lubricant to keep it moist. Do not allow the clay to freeze and do not store it in temperatures above 200° F.

Quick review guide:
Mist a 2 x 2 sq. ft. section of paint with clay lubricant.
Rub the clay bar across the wet paint until it no longer grabs the surface.

Always follow claying with a wax or sealant. Clay will remove existing wax and may leave tiny holes where contaminants have been removed. They must be sealed in order to protect the paint from corrosion.

Note: Detailing clay does not remove oxidized paint or fill in blemishes. If your paint is mildly oxidized, clean the paint with clay and then use a polish to remove the oxidized paint. If the oxidation is severe, polish first because the oxidized paint may flake off as you clay and ruin the clay bar.

Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew info@AutoPlusDetailing.com

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Show your ride to win great prizes! How detailed is your ride?

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We want to see how you have used the tips and advice from AutoPlus Detailing to detail your ride.  Share a before and after picture along with a short description of the steps involved, and post the photo's on our FaceBook page.  At the end of this weekend, on March 28, 2010, we will select the top three detailing jobs.  The top three ride will receive the same detailing products that we use at AutoPlus Motorcars.  Let's see those reflections!
First place will receive Meguiar's car wash and wax kit!

Second place will receive Meguiar's NXT Wash!
 Third place will receive Black Magic Tire Wet Foam!
Good Luck to all those who enter!
Be sure to post all photo's and descriptions on AutoPlus's fan page.

Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew info@AutoPlusDetailing.com

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Meguiars Soft Wash Gel Review

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This is remarkably thick car wash gel that is super rich and super concentrated. It is unlike any other car wash on the market. It blends expensive conditioners and optical brighteners to enhance the brilliance of the paint finish...and it won't strip off wax protection.
So far, this is the best car wash soap/gel we have used. This product really makes the water sheet out evenly over the whole car.  Even tho you should always dry your car with a shammy, if you wash it properly with a wash mit and make sure to get every spot, you almost dont have to dry it off because it will dry so evenly.  At a price point of under $8 we highly recommend this product.







Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew info@AutoPlusDetailing.com

Sunday, March 14, 2010

Dangers of touchless/ drive through car washes

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Touchless car washes today use Hydrofluoric acid as a first step and then an alkaline to neutralize the acid then high pressure water to wash cars. Hand washing is MUCH preferred, don’t use an automated car wash period, touch less or not, there are a variety of reasons: You should never, under any circumstances use a car wash that requires you to let another person drive your vehicle onto the ramps or into the wash, notice the disclaimer

“No responsibility for damage to customer’s vehicle.”

Local by-laws require car washes to re-claim or recycle water. This means they have two choices.
a) They can collect the water in tanks and pay to truck it away to a recycling centre.
b) They can filter and then recycle the water (dependant on how often the filters are cleaned/changed) will effect how much dirt content there is. Recycled meaning re-use the same water, which may include any road dirt/grit that is not filtered out is used to high-pressure (1,000PSI) wash your vehicle (somewhat similar to sandblasting) the final rinse is usually twice-filtered re-cycled water, this is to give the appearance of a clean surface on the vehicle.
c) To help clean the recycled water they use a chemical like Presidium Orthophosphate (TSP) and have the chemical formula Na3PO4. It is a highly water-soluble ionic salt. Solutions of it dissolved in water have an alkaline pH; this does a great job stripping your wax / sealant. TSP is generally not good for cleaning vehicles because it can corrode metal.

Other thnigs to consider before using a drive through car wash:

•To remove snow/sand/road dirt and grit without agitation (brushes etc) requires the use of very strong chemical cleaners.
•Probably the most important is that this type of automatic car wash use high-pressure water and strong alkaline detergent to clean vehicles that will strip the wax/polish
•You will also need to renew the vehicles sealant / wax to ensure the paint surface protection on a regular basis to counteract the effects of the harsh detergents.
•Also be aware of those that use ‘wheel guides’ as they will cause scratches / etching to the wheel surfaces, as many wash facilities will not accommodate either the tyre width or the clearance, thus causing sidewall damage
•Vehicle with lower than ‘standard’ suspension (Corvette C6 and other sports cars) should also be aware the wheel guides could cause body damage
•As an alternative in colder winter months I would suggest using a waterless vehicle cleaning product Protect All’s Quick Easy Wash (QEW)
•If you get a chance, attend a car wash / wax vendors symposiums where they give demonstrations of the different soap products that these type of facilities use, as a Chemical Engineer they scare me.. You'll come away a convert to never using them again, on any vehicle.

If you have no choice but to use a touchless car wash check out this article for tips on what to look for. Tips for driving through car wash

remember that the best way to keep your car looking it's best is by using our step by step guide on the proper way to wash your car. Proper Washing and Drying Techniques 

Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew @ UrbanAndrew@gmail.com

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Photo's from our upcoming DVD- remove scratches that are to the metal

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Learn to remove scratches that are all the way down to the metal.  With the easy how to steps in our DVD you will be able to remove deep scratches without repainting the door. Learn other tips and tricks that will not only save you a lot of money but also time.

Here we can see the scratch all the way to the metal on the car door.


A glaze compound is added as the last step to ensure the repainted scratch is no longer visivle







Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew @ UrbanAndrew@gmail.com

Saturday, March 6, 2010

Follow AutoPlus Detailing

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AutoPlus Detailing now has a FaceBook fan page along with a twitter feed. Follow us on both to receive valuable tips and tricks not listed on our blog.



Follow DetailingAutos on Twitter



Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew @ UrbanAndrew@gmail.com
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How to Remove Scratches From Car Paint

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Getting a scratch out of car paint can be easy or difficult, depending on the type of paint job on the vehicle. If you have a special paint job, such as candy apple, you will need to repaint the entire area of the car (fender, door). Even then, with a candy apple paint job, it will never look exactly right. If you have a standard paint job, you can easily repair a scratch in the paint, especially if the paint process used base coat-clear coat. If a base coat-clear coat procedure was used on the vehicle, and the scratch is not deep, you can easily repair the clear coat layer.

 
 

  1.  Step 1
    Prepare the area to be repaired by wet sanding the scratch and an area of 2 inches larger than the scratch in all directions. Wet sand lightly (using the 600 grit wet-dry sandpaper), making sure there to use plenty of water. If the scratch is in the clear coat only, you may be able to rub the scratch out. Skip Steps 2 and 3 and continue with Step 5 if the scratch is only in the clear coat.


  2.  Step 2
    Continue to wet sand the area until the scratch starts to fade. If the scratch is embedded deeply into the paint, you will need to take some of the paint off the area around the scratch. The deeper the scratch, the larger area around the scratch should be sanded out so that there will not be a "dip" in the paint. This will help feather the new paint into the existing paint on the vehicle. You may not be able to get the scratch to noticeably fade if it is more of a gouge than a scratch.
     
    Step 3
    Fill the scratch with thick primer. This primer is advertised as "scratch filling" primer. Hold the can 2 to 3 inches from the area being repaired and spray the sanded area lightly. Allow the primer to dry. If the scratch is very deep or if it is a gouge, fill the scratch or gouge with glazing compound. Allow the compound to dry, then wet sand it smooth. If you can still feel the scratch or gouge, add another coat of glazing compound. Let it dry, then wet sand it.

    Step 4
    Spray the vehicle paint over the primer. You will need to spray at least two coats of paint over the area. Allow each coat to dry, then wet sand each coat. When the paint is closest to the color of the rest of the car, you will have enough coats of paint. Keep the spray can at least 2 to 3 inches away from the area being painted. Use a light touch, spraying lightly over the area so as not to create runs in the paint (a run is when the fresh paint drips down the side of the vehicle). Allow the work to dry for at least 24 hours.

    Step 5
    Spray the repaired area with clear coat. Allow the clear coat to dry, then wet sand it with 2,000 grit wet-dry sand paper to smooth the paint. Add a second coat of clear coat.

    Want to really learn how to detail? Order a copy of our easy to understand, Auto detailing DVD that show step-by-step instructions. For information on how you can order an AutoPlus Detailing DVD contact Andrew @ UrbanAndrew@gmail.com